Posts Tagged ‘Manish Arora’


Thursday, October 3rd, 2013


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Manish Arora pop up store opening at joyce Gallery, Paris.
Photos by Pascal Gillet

Joyce Gallery
168/173 Galerie de Valois
75001 Paris

Manish Arora for Paco Rabanne

Thursday, October 13th, 2011

Manish Arora for Paco Rabanne

Masters of Maximalism

Manish Arora for Paco Rabanne: A few days ago, Manish Arora not only presented his own, radiant collection, he also revealed his first line as Paco Rabanne’s new creative director. Hardly a surprising choice, mind you – both houses are famous for their “lavish and over-the-top aesthetics,” the Indian designer told us.
In his studio, minutes before his personal show, Manish was calm and so was his team. Both collections were entirely ready  —an exploit in itself—, and so he sat with us for coffee and talked about house-hopping.
Paco Rabanne came both a surprise and an evidence, as both designers have always naturally be drawn to sci-fi, elongated lines with busy, outlandish embellishments, and a passion for minute detailing – thus mixing a futuristic vision with a love for technique. “On top of being colorful, we are both obsessed with details; we always loved the idea of using ancient craft to achieve something very modern.”
And while Arora’s own show delivered a classic Manish, juggling between utter theatricality and hushed sensitivity, Paco’s inheritance was like a new playground for him to play in.
He began by paying homage to Rabanne’s iconic Rhodoid dresses of the 60s – a bodycon dress in metallic appliqués, reminiscent of gladiators; 3D sequins created a trompe-l’oeil effect, for silhouettes oscillating between a Greek goddess, an Amazon and a Pluto inhabitant.
Respecting both his and the Spanish designer’s love to merge classical skills and cutting-edge material, he found a happy middle-ground between the two aesthetics, by proposing holographic dresses pieced with visible stitching, reminiscent of both histories. “The main thing was, I had to imagine what Paco Rabanne would do today, with the contemporary tools at hand,” he said, “not just remaining in the past, but reinterpreting what the silhouettes mean in 2012.”
This also applies to how he thinks of women, he explained, “The Paco woman of before isn’t the same today. Women aren’t the same today. There is a freedom, in life and in each movement and that has to be kept in mind for every design.” Manish explained, adding “both lines have plenty of wearable pieces. Indeed, while his lines bore jeans (yes! jeans) for the first time, his collection for Paco also offered simple pencil skirts paired with a dark cinched jacket – closer to New Look than Mars Attacks.
But the true future of Manish-meets-Paco is behind the scenes: while both designers have always cherished old-school atelier practice, Manish is taking some of the pieces to be made in India, a first for the usually French-made label. “Some of the more intricate pieces will be made in my atelier in New Delhi, because there, you can have quality that simply doesn’t exist anymore in Europe,” he said, explaining that some pieces will require a dozen people at a time on a single dress, “this respects the precision both houses love, and also keeps ancient techniques alive.”
Hard to beat…

Word. Alice Pfeifer
Photo. Clément Dauvent